It’s raining outside, fall/winter collections are presented one after another and step by step we’re waving goodbye to a long summer. This little movie presenting the GANT Rugger’s Fall/Winter 2010 collection ‘is a wild adventure’ to Cape Cod and brings us a little closer to the cold and dark winter days…

but with who?

Rumors have been flying around about some big names like Christopher Bailey, Rick Owens…and after a couple of YouTube-teasing-videos (Design is Relevant, Real and Surreal, Smart Design, Speed of Fashion, Smart Woman, The Future of Fashion, Very Melodramtaic) H&M announced that Lavin Hearts H&M

Now we are exciting to see their looks (debuting on hm.com November 2) a few weeks before they hit the stores (20 November/US – 23 November/Europe).

We’ve wrote about it before, but now there’s this little nice film: Rapha & Paul Smith. Enjoy!

Penfield just released their 35th Fall/Winter 2010 lookbook, “A Longmeadow morning”. Although we’re feeling a little sad that we need to say goodbye to the summer this makes us longing for he winter. Enjoy the outdoors with Penfield!

Every day, for the next 100 days, Vivienne Westwood and Lee Jeans will publish one image of active resistance online. Active Resistance is a project of positive thoughts, active changes, speaking up and being heard. And you can be part of thatli. The images will be selected from your submissions.
As Vivienne Westwood has put it together: “It is not enough to follow world politics, see films and read the prize-winning best seller. This is superficial, you need to go deep in order to understand who you are, what the world is and how things could be better. This involves culture which can only be acquired by self-education: human beings should mirror the world.”
100 days of resistance will start the 8th of september at Lee’s W1 store in London. At the close of 100 days, the 100 chosen images will become a part of a London exhibition, dedicated to the project. Visit www.ar100days.com for more information on how to participate.

The design agency Caramel, my friends from the south, created a beautiful book for the 23-year-old photography student Valentina Vos’ graduation project. The book is about new faces, young girls, just scouted by modeling agencies, standing at the beginning of their career as a model. ‘With her project she shows the true face of fifteen girls … results in touching, funny, but mostly honest and loosened pictures. Without any added make-up or photoshopping of the models. Vos does her own styling, using a lot of personal items of her subject. The girls are portrayed as they are, Vos has captured their soul.’ A fantastic project, bound together in a beautiful book, and available online at valentinavos.com

After the first signs of autumn with a lot of rain this morning here in the Netherlands, this collaboration looks planned really well. British Millerain waxed cotton, Primaloft insulation, Talon zippers, wrist gators and an embroidered scout patch – all together in one hell of a parka by Oi Polloi and Norse Projects. (available at  www.oipolloi.com)
Steve Sanderson, owner of Oi Polloi describes the inspiration for the collaboration: “For me, it’s all about rambling, walking and camping in mid to late seventies, it’s the kind of jacket the old guys would be wearing. At the time we thought they looked pretty cool.”… “The jacket we found and chose to use for inspiration is one my favourite outerwear pieces. It was in part designed by a legendary British mountaineer Chris Bonington… we love that it’s cotton, just using 2 layers. A superb simple design. Also, the hoods a great shape and the length a little longer than most jackets – but not so long as to make it a fully fledged mod parka.”

In the 5th issue of Journal de Nîmes we already showed you a few ways of knotting your tie and folding you pocket square. Since the day we made the illustration I was focused on ties and since than I saw them everywhere. We’ve made a little list of our todays favorites and my former intern Mia Porter put together a nice article, sourced from wikipedia and all over the place and came up with this. A ‘little’ history of the tie, which goes back to the mid 17th century, and our favorite ties in a row.

To start with a little list of our today’s favorite ties:

Flouzen
Harris Tweet
Graham Whithers
Gitman at Dann Clothing
Howard Yount
Ben Silver
Drakes London
J.Press
Paul Stuart

Different knots
The “four in hand” knot gained its name from its resemblance to the reins of the four horse carriage used by the British upper class.
The Shelby knot or the Pratt-Shelby knot was invented by Jerry Pratt, an employee of the US Chamber of Commerce. He had been wearing his tie in the Pratt knot for some twenty years before it became popular after TV personality Don Shelby wore it on air. The New York fashion press mistakenly attributed the invention of the knot to Shelby. It uses less length than the Half Windsor or Windsor knots, and so is well suited to shorter ties. Unlike the Four in Hand knot, the Pratt method produces a symmetrical knot.
The Windsor knot, also sometimes referred to as a Full Windsor or a Double Windsor to distinguish it from the half Windsor. The Windsor knot, compared to other methods, produces a wide symmetrical triangular knot. The knot is often thought to be named after the Duke of Windsor It is, however, named after his grandfather Edward V11. The Duke preferred a wide knot and had his ties specially made with thicker cloth in order to produce a wider knot when tied with the conventional four in hand knot. The Windsor knot was invented to emulate the Duke’s wide knot with regular ties. The Windsor knot is worn on more formal occasions, and it is especially suited for a spread or cutaway collar that can properly accommodate a larger knot.

The half-Windsor knot produces a neat, triangular knot. It is larger than the four in hand knot and Pratt knot but smaller than the Windsor knot. Despite its name, it is not half the size of the Windsor knot, and there is no evidence that it is derived from that knot. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics.

Our favorite Danish fashion brand Libertine-Libertine and our own Dutch denim store Tenue de Nîmes have joined hands. Taking the best of both worlds (fashion and denim) naturally meant co-creating a limited edition denim shirt based on the Libertine-Libertine design Hobo, which refers to a homeless traveler. Inspired by the Jack Kerouac masterpiece ‘On the Road’ the denim shirt symbolizes mobility and the warmth that new and unexpected experiences provide. The shirt contains numerous hidden treasures like the check-lined collar and cuffs and the subtle white Tenue de Nîmes cross embroidery on the right front of each garment. The Hobo shirt is exclusively available at Tenue de Nîmes. More pictures after the click >

Libertine-Libertine
Tenue de Nîmes

The autumn/winter 2010 collection of the British vintage inspired label Percival, with lovely fabric like Harris Tweed, Beeswax cotton, Chunky Lambswool and more lasting, honest fabrics is really worth a check. The label is designed and manufactured in London captures ‘a sense of boyish adventure with playful buttons and stand out contrast linings.’ See their seasonal movie online at www.percivalclo.com

A new collaboration between Rapha and Paul Smith. On October 1st 2010 they will launch a co-branded Rapha + Paul Smith collection of cycling clothes and accessories. Building over two seasons, the collection will feature products that are inspired by road racing and designed specifically for city riding. Ready for some stylish cycling.

Mark Robinson from the 189 did a nice interview with Stefano Ughett, the founding father of the Italian label Camo. “Camo Country Collection S/S 2011  took the inspiration from the italian film “L’albero degli zoccoli” of Ermanno Olmi and from studying the books as “Lassù gli ultimi” and “Fame d’erba” of Gianfranco Bini.
The “Country Collection” teaches the tight link between who we are and where we come from: the motherland as language, civilization and customs. It is a deep look in to the roots of the Biellese community of the farmers and shepards living simple and proud life.”
Read the interview here >

One of my favorite scandinavian brands just released its Spring-Summer 2011 lookbook. Inspired by California’s 70’s, mixed with a post-Vietnam war influence, Hunter S Thompson and Kerouac Libertine-Libertine made, again, a beautiful collection.

‘With regards to the design aesthetics, it is still all about dynamics and movement  which is perfectly mirrored in the collection. It is casual and wearable with a strong focus on high quality and durable fabrics, combined with great subtle detailing. Quite simply, ‘no fillers all killers’- as they like to put it.

Just a very small update since I’m a bit too busy to do more than this at the moment. We are enjoying a fantastic stay at Nigel Cabourn in Newcastle to document his lovely brand for the upcoming Journal de Nîmes. Hearing all the stories behind every single piece, and going through his archive of vintage clothing is just amazing. Thank you Nigel and Drew so far. Tomorrow we’ll continue…

Being a huge fan of Soulland I’m really feeling sad I’d to miss the presentation in Paris yesterday. The show was hosted at Galerie Charlotte Norber during the fashion week where they joins the likes of Henrik Vibskov and Acne as the third Scandinavian brand to show during the fashion week in Paris. The collection looks amazing and I can’t wait to see it all…

Last week we received the lookbook of the Comune Holiday 2010 collection with some very raw and edgy styles. Really like their imperfect feeling, the coated, brushed and textured materials! Be sure you’ll check their website/blog to get a clear view on their raw and uncompromised style >
A selection of the lookbook images after the click

Some may only know menswear mecca Oipolloi from their online store. But besides the web-shop the guys from Oipolloi have managed to create a little retail kingdom in Manchester, UK. Last week the opened their new store which is built from elements we have a weakness for: handmade furniture next to vintage pieces bought at auction.

A few weeks ago I came across Dann – Online Clothing and I instantly fell in love with this dandy’s imperium started by Dennis & Joan Dann. They say they’re online for 15 years already, and I think the site never changed since that beginning. It’s really amazing to see the different items, the enormous collection, and I feel like i can click around for days there. After the click just a little selection of our summer essentials (too many to name them all)

Gitman Cut and Sewn Polo
Viyella Vintage Distressed Madras
Berle Pants
Bills Khakis & Walk shorts
Alligator Bags
Colonel Littleton Personalized Luggage Rack
Zelli Woven Italian Calf leather shoes
Colonel Littleton GP No. 1 Shave Kit
Gitman Knit Necktie
Golfers Collection
Custom Embroidered Knit Shirts
Cross Watches
Colonel Littleton Pen Collection
Letter Openers and Desk Scissors Sets
Personalized Luggage
Safari Picnic Baskets Collection
Walking Sticks & Canes Collection
Cacties Western Woven Range Jackets
Kinloch Anderson Sweaters
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Dann – Online Clothing